
From north to south, east to west, India`s heritage sites present an incomparable architectural diversity. While well-known heritage sites like the Taj Mahal or Hampi often capture our imagination (and social media), India is dotted with numerous, equally significant yet relatively less popular historical treasures. The intricate rock-cut temples of Pattadakal in Karnataka, and the subterranean Rani-ki-Vav stepwell in Gujarat are examples of the architectural range that is yet to be explored by millions. These hidden gems, often steeped in local lore, offer a more intimate and profound connection to India`s past.
On this World Heritage Day, as we reflect on the importance of preserving our collective inheritance, we turn our attention to the passionate individuals who venture beyond the familiar. We speak to Indian travellers who traverse the country in search for ancient stories and stones. Driven by curiosity and appreciation for India`s unsung marvels, their journeys aim to inspire you to explore beyond famous landmarks and discover captivating beauty and untold stories.
Sarkhej Roza isn`t just a place; it`s a feeling – a blend of sukoon, stillness and joy
“Initially, feeling like an outsider who barely spoke Hindi, I found myself lost, bored and desperately lonely when I first moved to Ahmedabad. I would often complain about the lack of places to visit, escaping whenever possible to Goa, the mountains, Bangalore or any rural corner of the country – anywhere but the city I lived in,” recalls writer Saloni Miglani. However, the exhaustion of constant travel led her back to the city with a new appreciation for slow travel, moving away from typical tourist destinations. “I had embraced the philosophy of slow travel, discovering that true beauty lies in the unscripted, unhurried path, far removed from rigid itineraries and Instagrammable hotspots. Coming across this Sarkhej Roza on a warm evening in Ahmedabad forever changed my opinion on, and experience of the city,” the 32-year-old muses.
Saloni Miglani at Sarkhej Roza in Ahmedabad (Photo Courtesy: Saloni Miglani)
Completed in 1451, the complex was built around the tomb of Sufi saint Sheikh Ahmed Khattu Ganj Baksh, who was the spiritual advisor to Sultan Ahmed Shah, the founder of Ahmedabad. Recognised as a Monument of National Importance, Sarkhej Roza is an ideal example of Indo-Saracenic architectural style. Miglani adds, “It’s quite unlike anywhere I’ve ever been. The complex includes a mosque, a library, a palace, baradaris, and mausoleums (yes, all of the above)! Designed by Persian brothers Azam and Muazzam Khan, Sarkhej Roza uniquely blends Hindu, Islamic and Jain motifs — now, that’s syncretism.”
Unlike some heritage sites that exist solely as relics of the past, Sarkhej Roza is a vibrant, living space. “Sarkhej Roza isn`t just a place; it`s a feeling – a blend of sukoon, stillness and joy. I’ve witnessed the local community gathering here at all times of day – men and women in cosy circles sharing conversations and laughter, children filling the vast courtyard with games of tag, football and cricket. One of my most cherished memories is from Ramadan this year, when a local group organised an iftar, inviting people of all faiths to break the fast together, perfectly embodying the syncretic spirit of the place,” she says.
Miglani recommends visiting the heritage site during golden hour, “The best time to go is about an hour or two before the sun sets; you’ll get to enjoy everything the complex has to offer — and maybe join an impromptu football game or two — before settling in for a stunning sunset over the tank behind the complex.”
Heritage sites are not just textbook relics but a living, breathing legacy that shapes our present
India`s diverse architecture, from southern Dravidian temples to northern Nagara designs, and Indo-Islamic marvels, reflects the unique stories of its people, believes former professor of philosophy Seema Vishnoi. “Architecture, in its essence, is a profound reflection of a civilisation. It speaks volumes about the lives its people led, the education they valued, their mental landscapes and their overarching worldview,” she proposes.
The 64-year-old tells us that the majestic temples of Khajuraho in Madhya Pradesh, and Konark in Orissa are among her favourites, but what moved her immensely was a visit to the archaeological site of Nalanda Mahavihara. Established in the 5th century, Nalanda was an unparalleled institution of learning, and drew scholars from all over Asia including China and Korea. “Nalanda was a place of profound spiritual and intellectual influence for 800 years. While the prowess of this ancient centre of learning cannot be overstated, the impact of Buddhism on how the knowledge was imparted and absorbed by scholars has always fascinated me. After years of reading about it, I visited the wellspring of India’s intellectual heritage,” Vishnoi shares.
Seema Vishnoi exploring Nalanda ruins (Photo Courtesy: Seema Vishnoi)
Situated roughly 90 kms from Patna, archaeological remains of Nalanda include stupas, shrines, viharas and are recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. “Walking through the ruins of the prestigious ancient university, and learning about the way the scholars of Nalanda conducted themselves, their lifestyle of rigorous study and contemplation, their very way of thinking – felt surreal. Introducing the Mahayana Buddhism concept of Shunyavaad to my daughter sparked discussions about Buddhist philosophical ideas which I taught for years. It was like passing on a precious inheritance,” she reminisces fondly.
As is the case with archaeological sites, the significance lies in the invisible past. Vishnoi insists on a guided tour, “I highly recommend availing the services of a certified guide to navigate the ruins with appropriate context. An interactive experience will help you delve deeper into the socio-political and cultural aspects of the site beyond historical facts. Heritage sites are not just textbook relics but a living, breathing legacy that shapes our present.”
The fact that no one has figured how they were made is an intriguing aspect for me – I`m drawn to the unexplainable
“In ‘The Golden Road’, William Dalrymple revisits Ellora as part of India’s deep cultural current — a place where art, faith and form converged to shape the world. I return for the same reason,” shares interior product designer Kanika Bhatia, who has been to Ellora thrice. Located in Maharashtra, about 30 km from the city of Chhatrapati Sambhajinagar, the Ellora complex is a UNESCO recognised World Heritage Site. The architectural marvel was not built, but carved from a single stone over roughly 500 years making it one of the world’s largest monolithic rock-cut sculptures. The Pune resident believes gastronomy and history hold the key to deeply engaging with places and understanding their origins, “My travels are driven by a deep hunger for two things: food and history. For me, understanding a place is akin to understanding a person – it requires asking the difficult questions. And nothing reveals the answers to those questions more eloquently than the origins of a region`s cuisine and its architectural heritage.”
Numerous Buddhist, Jain and Hindu religious sites including the famed Kailasa Temple are spread across the complex which emphasises the religious harmony in early medieval India (circa 6th to 11th centuries AD). “My knowledge of Indian mythology was to put it mildly, limited before my exploration of Ellora. The caves served as an incredible introduction to the vast pantheon of Indian gods and goddesses and their intricate roles. Ellora’s quiet grandeur and carved geometries have shaped how I approach space. Nandi, still and powerful, often finds his way into my work — not always literally, but in the balance he holds. I have in fact commissioned a couple of paintings inspired from what I saw at Ellora,” Bhatia recalls.
Ellora-inspired painting commissioned by Kanika Bhatia (Photo Courtesy: Kanika Bhatia)
For those who are enticed by mystery, Ellora echoes the with the enigma of an advanced ancient civilisation. The architectural scale and sophistication have given rise to a diverse range of conspiracy theories. “The fact that no one has figured how they were made is an intriguing aspect for me – I`m drawn to the unexplainable,” she admits.
When asked for expert tips, Bhatia suggests, “I highly recommend dedicating at least a full day to explore the diverse caves and allowing yourself to simply wander and absorb the incredible artistry. To truly appreciate the grandeur and complexity of Ellora, plan your visit during the cooler months.”
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