Prada breaks silence on Kolhapuri chappals row; acknowledges Indian connection

Days after facing backlash over showcasing footwear resembling Maharashtra’s iconic Kolhapuri chappals without crediting its Indian origins, Italian luxury brand Prada has now officially recognised that its design was inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear.

The controversy began after a pair of sandals from Prada’s Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection — unveiled during the Milan Fashion Week — bore a striking resemblance to Kolhapuri chappals. However, in its show notes, the brand described them merely as “leather sandals,” omitting any mention of Indian roots.

The omission drew sharp criticism from Indian netizens, fashion commentators, and artisan groups, with many accusing Prada of cultural appropriation and “cultural theft.” Responding to the criticism, Prada has now issued a clarification, admitting the inspiration behind the design, PTI reported.

“We acknowledge that the sandals featured in the recent Prada Men’s 2026 Fashion Show are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage. We deeply recognise the cultural significance of such Indian craftsmanship,” said Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada Group Head of Corporate Social Responsibility, in a letter to Lalit Gandhi, President of the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture.

Bertelli’s letter was in response to a letter issued by Gandhi amid growing outrage from India’s fashion community and traditional artisans who produce Kolhapuri chappals in western Maharashtra.

Further clarifying Prada’s position, Bertelli added, “Please note that, for now, the entire collection is currently at an early stage of design development and none of the pieces are confirmed to be produced or commercialised. We are committed to responsible design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue for a meaningful exchange with local Indian artisan communities—as we have done in past collections—to ensure rightful recognition of their craft.”

“Prada strives to pay homage and recognise the value of such specialised craftspeople that represent an unrivalled standard of excellence and heritage. We would welcome the opportunity for further discussion and will set a follow-up with the relevant Prada teams,” he wrote.

Lalit Gandhi’s letter to Prada

According to PTI, Lalit Gandhi’s letter urged Prada to publicly acknowledge the Indian inspiration behind the design and to uphold the cultural rights of artisans.

In his letter, Gandhi wrote, “I am writing to respectfully draw your attention to a matter concerning your recently unveiled Men`s Spring/Summer 2026 collection, which was showcased on June 23, 2025, in Milan. It has come to public attention that the collection includes footwear designs that bear a close resemblance to Kolhapuri chappals—a traditional handcrafted leather sandal that was granted Geographical Indication (GI) status by the Government of India in 2019.”

Gandhi also stressed the importance of cultural attribution and the livelihoods of artisans dependent on the craft. “Kolhapuri chappals represent centuries-old craftsmanship rooted in the cultural fabric of Maharashtra, India. These products are not only symbolic of regional identity but also support the livelihoods of thousands of artisans and families in the Kolhapur region and surrounding districts,” he said.

He further wrote, “While we appreciate global fashion houses drawing inspiration from diverse cultures, we are concerned that this particular design appears to have been commercialised without due acknowledgement, credit, or collaboration with the artisan communities who have preserved this heritage through generations.”

Gandhi concluded by urging Prada to consider collaboration or fair compensation and to promote ethical fashion practices that honour traditional knowledge and protect cultural rights. “Such a gesture would not only uphold ethical standards in global fashion but also foster a meaningful exchange between heritage craftsmanship and contemporary design. We trust that a brand of Prada’s stature and influence will take this concern in the right spirit and initiate a thoughtful response,” his letter said.

Backlash in India

Following the Milan showcase, several Indians pointed out the uncanny resemblance of Prada’s footwear to Kolhapuri chappals — an iconic product of Maharashtra known for its distinctive leatherwork and traditional value.

Also Read: When Prada does it, it`s fashion — When I did, it was ‘too desi’!

Artisans and craft cooperatives from the region accused the brand of violating the GI rights of Kolhapuri chappals by not acknowledging their heritage and attempting to rebrand them under a Western label.

On Thursday, BJP MP Dhananjay Mahadik led a delegation of Kolhapuri chappal artisans to meet Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis. They submitted a letter requesting the state government to investigate the matter and take steps to protect the integrity of the product, which they said symbolises the cultural legacy of Maharashtra.

(With inputs from PTI)

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