A quintessential element in Mumbai’s street food, the pao, part of various dishes like vada pao, samosa pao and pao bhaji, is about to change. The Brihanmumbai Municipal Corporation, in an effort to curb air pollution, has ordered nearly 650 bakeries in the city to switch from wood-fired and charcoal ovens to electric ones within six months.

Bakers warn that the move will change the signature flavour of pao, which they say can only come from being baked in wood-fired ovens. Some also point out that the higher cost of cleaner fuels and the reduced capacity of new ovens will push up the price of a pao.

Anwar Khan, who delivers pao to various shops and vendors across the city, said that the increased cost will affect the poor the most. “If the cost of vada pao increases from Rs 20 to Rs 30, who will be able to afford it?”

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