LFW 2025, Day 3: Kutch artisans blend tradition with contemporary aesthetics

Five artisans from Kutch showcased their creations in a show presented by Somaiya Kala Vidya at Lakmé Fashion Week X FDCI on Friday.

The creations reflected their expertise in Ajrakh print, Mashru weave, and Bandhani and Batik crafts. Poetic commentary and the beat of live Kutchi music elevated the show as models walked down the ramp.

With Ajrakh as the centre of attraction, Zaid Khatri’s ‘Eternal Ajrakh’ collection from his label ‘Ajrakh Gharana’ was a journey from the past to the present, and then into the future.

Collection by Zaid Khatri

Zaid stated, “For me, Ajrakh is not just a print; it is a legacy that transcends time. This is the very craft that was embraced by the Indus Valley Civilisation and is cherished even today with pride. Yet, one question has always stayed with me—can tradition and modernity coexist? Can Ajrakh, which is eternal, also become a symbol of contemporary identity?”

The collection combined traditional block printing with new silhouettes and modern designs.

Next, Amruta Vankar’s collection featured the craft of expert weaving for her label ‘Alaicha’. Alaicha, which means Mashru in Kutchi, is an intricate weave popular for centuries. The distinct dotted pattern was the highlight of the weave, which has been a favourite for the ghagras and saris of the Ahir and Rabari women in Kutch.

Collection by Amruta Vankar

Talking about the creations, Amruta shared, “After my education in design and learning to stay true to my craft, I realised that Mashru weaving is more than a craft – it`s a cultural identity intricately woven into fabric. Through innovative silhouettes, minimalist aesthetics and a refined colour palette, I`ve reinterpreted Mashru into bold, stylish designs for the showcase.”

Concentrating on Ajrakh, artisan Mubbasirah Khatri designed the ‘Anatomy’ collection for the label ‘Elysian’. Going for an earthy palette of blue, black, red, off-white and khaki – popular colours in traditional Ajrakh work – the designer worked with abstract patterns that aligned with the design philosophy.

Collection by Mubbasirah Khatri

Sharing the inspiration behind her collection, Mubbasirah said, “I am inspired by nature. This time, I wanted to do something different, yet stay connected to nature, so I chose Anatomy.”

Using Bandhani as the core craft, artisan Muskan Khatri’s collection titled ‘Mystery’ for the label ‘Musk’ was inspired by the galaxy. The dark and neon shades were aimed at symbolising the luminous beauty that was scattered through the universe. The meticulously designed motifs and patterns were inspired by celestial formations and abstract elements of the cosmos.

Collection by Muskan Khatri

“My collection expresses the magic and vastness of the universe through Tie and Dye,” Muskan said.

Then, the beauty of the traditional Batik craft was unveiled on the ramp by Shakil Ahmed’s label ‘Neel Batik’ through a collection titled ‘Tradition to Modern’.

The designer stated, “The idea behind my collection was to blend traditional batik with modern aesthetics.”

Collection by Shakil Ahmed

Presenting a mélange of silhouettes and styles, Shakil created four sets of Indian and western garments. Saris were the focal point of the Indian offering, while the western designs brought an Indo-fusion cultural appeal.

Also Read: Lakmé Fashion Week 2025: Dates, designers and everything you need to know