Philosophers say you begin to age the moment you are born; most physicians say that the signs of maturing usually start to appear around age 23-25. This figure is not written in stone; you can protect your skin in a manner that staves off ageing, just as you can hasten premature ageing. I have seen people in their late 20s whose abusive habits and neglect have already begun to damage their skin, and I have seen individuals in their late 60s who can pass off as in their late 40s.

Poor nutrition, alcohol and drugs, lack of exercise, skin neglect, and a wrong attitude make you susceptible to premature ageing. Another hazard that affects the health and integrity of your skin is free radicals. If you want to preserve a youthful complexion, begin nurturing your body before it is too late. After all, there is a point when non-surgical skincare will not have much effect.

If you protect your skin from the sun, you can expect to have almost the same skin quality you had in your 40s when you reach your 60s. Ninety per cent of skin ageing is because of environmental causes, with unprotected sun exposure being first on the list. It is essential to distinguish between the two different forms of ageing. One is caused by sun exposure and the other by chronological time.

Wrinkles, leathery skin, freckles, blemishes, and spots are primarily caused by years of unprotected sun exposure. If your parents did not apply sunscreen when you were a child or if you over-tanned in your youth, you might see the consequences in your early 20s. Signs of chronological ageing appear later, causing a change in facial contours, increased dryness, and new patterns of hair growth. Such changes begin to become evident when you are in your late 30s or early 40s.

Ageing affects the natural function of cell repair, reproduction, and cellular turnover. All three of these vital skin functions slow down as you get older. The breakdown of the collagen and elastin proteins is a slow process. Of course, if sun damage triggers premature ageing, a 30 or even 20-year old stratum corneum could metamorphose and become unevenly pigmented. This unevenness is a precursor to age spots, to the transformation of fine lines into deep wrinkles and to rough and sallow skin texture. Predicting what your skin is going to look like in 20 or 10 years is exceedingly difficult. No one can say when the first fine line, wrinkle, or age spots will appear. However, there are many preventive steps, proper professional skincare treatments, medical options, and vitamin therapy you can take to keep your skin healthy and complexion glowing.

Gravity and menopause have a profound effect on the skin. Fluctuations in hormonal levels can trigger a temporary case of adult acne which goes away after menopause. Some of the effects of gravity are sagging and drooping. Gravity combines with the rapid decrease in collagen production, and elastic rigidity quickly causes your skin to lose its tone. The cartilage acts as a support for the skin, and as the cartilage droops, so does your skin. When this occurs, your ears and nose appear longer. Your complexion can take on a tired, drawn appearance, which may be particularly evident around the eyes and jawline. Your skin continues to become drier, and its texture becomes rough, depending on how much sun damage you have accumulated. Bone loss, loss of teeth, and redistribution or loss of fat at the subcutaneous level of the skin can all contribute to reforming the contours of your facial structure. These changes affect the draping of your skin, particularly in the lower half of the face. Problems you had in your 50s become more pronounced in your 60s.

Even if your skin is undamaged by the sun, it will show subtle changes after menopause. A slowdown in oil production causes the skin either to thin or thicken in certain areas. After menopause, the middle layer of the skin thins out, and its ability to retain water is diminished. Blotchiness and dryness can occur because of fluctuating hormone levels. The skin on your body tends to age much more gracefully than facial skin because your body has been protected from the sun by clothes.

There is no quick way to turn back the clock. It takes decades for your skin to reach the condition it is in today. However, your skin is always the youngest organ of your body because it goes through a regenerative process every 28 days. You must give this process extra support as you age. Following professional advice on cell renewal and regeneration would be to your greatest benefit when managing mature skin.

Skincare products for mature or sun-damaged skin

Antioxidants

Antioxidants include ingredients like vitamin C, E and even vitamin A that make up retinoids. They also include other antioxidants like coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) and manganese. What makes a substance an antioxidant is its ability to repair and prevent damage from free radical damage in the body by neutralising them. Antioxidants are used for anti-ageing, both internally (in diets and supplements) and externally (on the skin). They provide a protective effect, and while they don’t reverse previous damage as most brands claim, they can do a lot to prevent future damage. I recommend using an antioxidant gel in the morning and a serum with almond cream at night.

Ingredients in many skincare products include: Vitamin C, Vitamin E, green tea, white tea, CoQ10, pomegranate, and soy. Vitamin C is one of the most common and effective antioxidants in skincare products, and it is often included in serums. Look for at least 10% L-ascorbic acid in the ingredients if you want Vitamin C to be effective. The effects of topical vitamin C are enhanced when combined with Vitamin E, another potent antioxidant, which is why I like to call them best friends.

Growth factors

Growth factors can have a dramatic effect on the skin. They are chemical messengers that can signal the skin cells to increase the production of new collagen. Growth factors have been effectively used for many years in wound healing, and are now an essential ingredient in many anti-ageing creams and serums. If your skin cannot tolerate retinoids, growth factors are a good replacement, because they cause less irritation, flaking and drying. If I had to choose between a retinol-based cream and a growth factor cream/serum, I would go with growth factors. I first encountered this ingredient 5 years ago, but I was immediately turned off by the strong smell. Since then, new technological advances have greatly improved the scent, making it no longer an issue. My main problem with growth factor-based skincare brands is their pricing. They cost an arm and a leg for as little as 30ml of product. It’s considered liquid gold.

Peptides

Peptides are another common anti-ageing ingredient in skincare products. They come in three forms, each one with its own specific benefits. The first type of peptide promotes increased collagen production in cells. Peptide-based products are, in general, less expensive than growth factor-based products. Hence, the results too and the efficacy.

The second type of peptide acts as a carrier of copper. Copper has been used for decades to improve wound healing and has been incorporated into skin care products since the late ’90s. Copper peptides are believed to have many beneficial effects on ageing skin, including increasing the production of hyaluronic acid (an important moisturising component) and collagen. It also acts as an antioxidant.

The third type of peptide is collectively called neuropeptides, which can act as a smooth muscle relaxer. Smooth muscles are also called involuntary muscles, like the muscles of the gastrointestinal tract, blood vessels, and uterus. If they can relax smooth muscles, can they also relax voluntary muscles like the ones that cause facial wrinkles? Scientific research is inconclusive, but this hasn’t stopped some skincare brands from claiming that it can, and they have started producing products that promise just that.

Many clients ask me about my opinion on peptides. If you are a skincare novice, and want to stretch your money on skincare products, then hold off on buying peptide-based products. The science to support their benefits isn’t very strong, and there are other, proven, less expensive ways to make your skin look better. However, if you are a seasoned skincare veteran or a skincare enthusiast, and you want to try something different, peptide-based creams/serums may be worth a try. Just don’t fall for all the hype.

Additionally, you now need to take a second look at your skin care product line to see whether there are newer products that can give more help. The moisturising efficacy of any product you select is the key factor in maintaining the integrity, health, and appearance of your skin. When searching for products for sun-damaged and mature skin, you must look for products that have special properties. In these two situations, your skin has become deficient in two of the most valuable components: sebum (the skin’s natural oil) and moisture leading to excessive dryness and dehydrated skin.

The part of the skin that skincare products affect, whether it is a cleanser, a moisturiser or a night cream, is the stratum corneum which is the outermost layer of the skin. This outermost layer of your skin is about the thickness of a piece of tape, but its protective importance to your body goes beyond its size. Mature and sun-damaged skin is not able to maintain the proper moisture level. If a product containing enough barrier-forming, water-impermeable ingredients (essential fatty acids) is applied to the skin, the stratum corneum absorbs 5-6 times its dry weight and holds this moisture to the skin. The thickness in turn evenly increases by nearly 3-4 times its original size and temporarily camouflages and diminishes any fine lines to give you the appearance of a fresher looking complexion.

The function of any skincare product has to be threefold: provide water which can be absorbed by the stratum corneum, provide humectants that attract moisture to the area, and deliver emollients which are used as sealants to slow down evaporation and hold this new moisture to the surface of the skin. This, of course, is a temporary plumping solution and results vary with everyone, from climate to climate and depending on the richness of the product. Still, the rule of thumb says you should apply a moisturiser twice a day or as needed. The most important products you need to keep your skin moist, bright, radiant and in prime condition are a good moisturiser, a good SPF 15 sunscreen, a good heavy-duty night cream and serum and a face pack.

Excerpted with permission from Beauty Preserved: The Ultimate No-Nonsense Beauty Guide, Dinyar Workingboxwalla, The Times of India.

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