I remember being perched on the kitchen counter at my nani’s house, my legs dangling as I watched her work with the rhythm of someone who’s been cooking all her life. Everything felt like magic, especially in its simplicity. Nani’s hands moved with purpose, a dance of experience. She’d glance over at me, the corner of her mouth lifting into a knowing smile, and say, “Andaaz se namak dalo” (Estimate the amount of salt). In those moments, time seemed to slow down. The kitchen, with its worn counters and the comforting hum of everyday life, is a space where stories are told through smells, sounds, and the gentle stirring of a ladle.

Memories of the kitchen

That’s exactly what Fabulous Feasts, Fables and Family: A Culinary Memoir by Tabinda Jalil Burney feels like – a journey into the warm, shared moments and little secrets passed down from one generation to the next. It’s a blend of the old and the new, of memories that linger long after the meal is over, and of a recipe that, just like Nani’s recipe, demands to be savoured slowly.

Besides being instructive, the book shows how recipes can be carriers of memories and stories. It is beautifully personal and transports readers to the summers of Jalil Burney’s childhood in Aligarh, where she spent sun-soaked days with her grandparents. At the heart of it all is Amma, her formidable grandmother, who presided over the kitchen as the extended family gathered. Amidst the gentle hum of conversation, the women of the family worked their magic, concocting dishes passed down through generations, their hearts creating meals without the need for recipes or measurements – everything was done by andaaz (estimation). It was a place where the aroma of freshly made shami kebabs, qormas, and chuquandar gosht filled the air, and the sound of the children’s laughter blended with the call of distant birds and the rustling of leaves.

Bringing back a lost era

The kitchen in the book is a portal to a world where food is more than just sustenance – it’s a vessel for storytelling, love, and heritage. Each dish tells a story of an aunt, an older cousin, or some relative, their lives immortalised in these recipes. Family gatherings were a mix of food, storytelling, and tradition, where the art of bait bazi, reciting poetic couplets in a playful chain, was as much a part of the afternoon as the cooking itself. Some of these verses can be read in the book, and make for an interesting read, in their original and translated forms – both of which I am lucky enough to understand. Jalil Burney’s memoir is not only the story of her family but also a forgotten era – the Aligarh of the 1960s and 70s, a snapshot of India long gone, all through the universal language of food and love.

The language doesn’t just describe the food and the relationships that surround it; it honours them. For her family, cooking is not just about eating but about celebrating stories, people, and moments. There’s this emotional depth, paired with the author’s lyrical yet relatable writing, that leaves readers both hungry and inspired. Every time I read a new recipe, I would think about trying it out for myself – a list which is now admittedly quite long!

Jalil Burney’s background as a writer, translator, and doctor adds depth to her narrative. Her medical training lends precision to her culinary experiments. Her previous book, How to Feed Your Child (and Enjoy It!), which won the Gourmand Award for best writing for childcare, reflects her ability to blend practical recipes with engaging storytelling. This skill is also evident in this memoir.

This is a must-read for everyone, not just for the generational treasure trove of recipes, or a trip to an Aligarh of the past, but because it is simply unputdownable.

Fabulous Feasts, Fables and Family: A Culinary Memoir, Tabinda Jalil Burney, Penguin India.

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