Cannes 2025: Indian designer Payal Khandwala dives into Payal Kapadia’s look

Mumbai-based filmmaker Payal Kapadia returned to the Cannes Film Festival this year as a jury member, not only celebrating cinema but also fashion with her understated yet sophisticated sense of style.

Only last year, Kapadia’s film ‘All We Imagine As Light’ won the Grand Prix at Cannes Film Festival. With all eyes on her this time around, the filmmaker, whose international accolades are testament to her cinematic excellence, appeared at the photocall in a unique avatar that was still the filmmaker just being herself. This is an aspect of her personality that Mumbai-based designer Payal Khandwala not only understands but knows how to translate into statement ensembles.

It is no surprise then that Kapadia donned an outfit by the designer’s label for the jury photocall on the opening day of Cannes 2025 on May 13. The handwoven silk ensemble, which was styled by Indrakshi Pattanaik, featured a structured yet fluid red skirt, and a relaxed-fit blue shirt. It was one of two ensembles she pulled off on the day – the other was by the label Rishta by Arjun Saluja.

Payal Kapadia (second from left) in an ensemble by Payal Khandwala during the photocall on opening day of Cannes 2025 (Pic: AFP)

Deconstructing Payal Kapadia’s look

Talking to mid-day about the look, Khandwala reveals, “It is handwoven silk, in our signature jewel colours. It has structure but also drape, and the sheen makes it luxurious, dramatic even, but in a very subtle way. The colours just so happened to be the colours of the French flag. But that was more a happy coincidence than a strategy.”

The outfit perfectly captured Kapadia’s fuss-free outlook towards fashion. “She picked what she responded to, a bold but minimal, architectural silhouette, that was strong but also comfortable,” the Mumbai-based designer states.

Interestingly, this is not the first time that the two collaborated for a global event. Kapadia had worn a black silk jumpsuit by Khandwala’s label at the Golden Globes Awards earlier this year.

As cinema and fashion go hand-in-hand at global awards shows and film festivals, the designer reveals a side of Kapadia that many may not know. She says, “Payal knows what she wants, she has clarity, and it was refreshing to hear she doesn’t care too much about fashion. This made her an instant fit for us. She is warm and easy-going and had other priorities, which she didn’t conflate with her red carpet appearance and that was a breath of fresh air. She’s talented and quietly confident, so it was rather easy to collaborate with her.”

It was easy because Khandwala says she is a designer who likes stillness, especially in a world full of visual clutter and noise. “It’s nice to pause and slow down. Now perhaps, more than ever before. Both personally and professionally, I would pick a whisper over a shout every single time. It’s how I like to live my life, how I like to dress, and our clothes reflect that,” she expresses.

Women designing for women

While Kapadia and Khandwala collaborating seems natural, the latter believes that women designing for women presents an advantage. She explains, “(As women) We know and understand our bodies – what we want to reveal, what we don’t. We have access to our own bodies and psychology each day, this can certainly help us make more informed choices when we design clothes for other women – about how they want to look and feel, how they think and how they want to be perceived. This is our differentiator – clothes that are a bit more considered and have more intent in the most honest way.”

It is also why she hopes that the spotlight shines on Indian female fashion designers as celebrities are opting for homegrown labels on global stages, and Kapadia is one such example.

Want to style the outfit worn by Payal Kapadia at Cannes? Here are three tips by the designer:

1. Styling it with the shirt buttoned up and an accessory popped under the collar like Payal did is a great option.
2. For a slightly less formal look, one can opt for the shirt buttoned down with long layered brass or silver chains with charms.
3. Just earrings or just an exaggerated cuff would work for those who like the less-is-more aesthetic.